Holy Shit!

Holy Shit!if you fall, you dieBig-wave pioneer Buzzy Trent put it this way: "Big waves aren't measured in feet, they're measured in increments of fear." There is another way to measure a wave, one borrowed from the world of skiing. Risk seekers who ski down near-vertical chutes or sail off rock cliffs use the term extreme. It simply means: If you fall, you die.Mark Foo, a surfing legend who met his death on a 15-foot wave at Maverick's, had a four-word credo: "Ultimate thrill. Ult...