Winter Wines

Winter WinesFor every Wine there is a season. When it's springtime in Vienna, everyone gulps heurige--the lively young light wine--from glass mugs. Even devout wine snobs sip chilled rosé, contentedly, at a summer picnic in the country. Parisians tie into le beaujolais nouveau in the fall, almost before it has finished fermenting. But when arctic winds numb your toes and your soul, nothing does better than the sun-drenched, sonorous, penetrating wines of winter--malmsey, madeira, the big, aged p...