The Big Freeze

The Big FreezeAmong the rediscovered joys of the past, the coolest at the table these days is freshly frozen ice cream--your own thing, churned in the tradition-honored freezer bucket. This is not to say that store-bought ice cream isn't enjoying a renaissance of its own. Gourmet brands are flourishing and ice-cream parlors are proliferating. But freshly made do-it-yourself ice cream is to most of the packaged stuff as fresh Beluga caviar is to baby food. Even an ice cream as simple as French va...