The Holiday Roast

December, 1963

The Holiday RoastAlmost every yuletide feast bit or little, roisterous or suave, brings forth a roast. In the past'men' have celebrated holiday .junkets with roasts as small as quail, a succulent bird that literally fits in the hand, and have wassailed around whole oxen, turned by a pitchfork beside a ton of glowing coals. There are flamboyant roasts like baron of beef, a bridge-shaped double loin from the best part of the steer, and modest roasts like young guinea hen. At beerfests, the crackli...