Beefing It Up

Beefing It UpMost knowledgeable beefeaters tend toward split culinary personalities. In their club dining rooms, they call for planked steaks and sizzling steaks, for Delmonicos and Chateaubriands, for filets and contre-filets. But when the black ties are tossed aside in favor of chef's caps, carnivorous men more often than not turn to slices of juicy beef brisket astride wedges of new cabbage, to German Sauerbraten and beef stew in burgundy, Old World dishes for which devotees always have been...