Dining-Drinking

Dining-DrinkingHeavy drapes shield the gastrophile's Shangri-La, Café Chambord, from New York's busy, El-less Third Avenue (near 50th). Within, the decor is underplayed to the point of refined Spartan, lest there be any distraction from the shrine's devout purpose. The high lama here is Phil Rosen, a dedicated perfectionist who lives to see that some of the world's finest food is served and enjoyed. It is. After champagne cocktails, our hors d'oeuvres were Coquille Gratinée, a merely sublime mel...